Sewing machine



J. P. WEIS SEWING MACHINE Filed Jan. 5, 1933 Paw 9 Patented Oct. 9, 1934 SEWING MACHINE John P. Wcis, Nyack, N. Y.-, assignor to Metropolitan Sewing Machine Corporation, Nyack, N. Y,, a corporation of Delaware Application January 5,

23 Claims.

" ing and staying of such Vamps may beaccoinplished in one operation on a single machine.

A further object of the invention is the provision of a cylinder sewing machine, the cylinder of which is provided with a plurality of spaced differently formed and operating stitching elements effective for the performance of different classes of work. I

A further object is the provision of an improved sewing machine by means of which certain portions of the work may be first led in a curvilinear path and seamed and then a stay or tape stitched to the seam by means of parallel rows of stitching.

In the present instance, the improvement is applied to the cylinder of an upside-down Metropolitan sewing machine such as that shown and described. in my Patent No. 1,816,626, of May 28th, 1931, since this is especially adapted for the kind of work referred to herein as it is arranged to be used as a post machine. V

For closing and staying that type of shoe having no side seams or tips stitched thereto thereby to join the Vamps of what is known in the trade as full vamp shoes, I have provided mechanism for effecting the seaming and staying thereof in 30 one operation. 7 V

The closing or joining operation is accomplished by a curved needle operating within the cylindrical arm of the machine and cooperating with a specialform of looper also located therein '35 while the staying operation is accomplished by needles carried by a needle bar operating in the post or head of the machine, so that the needles will move up from the bottom and co-act with loopers located in the cylinder and make two '40 lines of stitches to sew the stay or tape over thedetail view of the looper parts cooperating with the curved needle;-

-F'ig. 5 is a sectional detail view showing the first stitching or seaming mechanism. comprising the curved needle shown in Fig; 3 and the lcoper shown in Fig. 4, also showing the second or parallel stitching mechanism comprising the 1933, Serial No.- 650,249 (01112-2) needles coming up from the bottom and oo-acting with the loopers in the cylinder, and also illustratingthe feeding and presser foot mechanism for feeding the'work; and

Fig. 6 is a perspective View looking at the end of the cylinder from the under side thereof as indicated by the arrow in Fig. 5 and illustrates the joining or seaming of the work and the application of a stay or tape to the. seam.

Similar characters of reference indicate corresponding parts in the several views.

Before explaining in detail the present improvement and mode of operation thereof, I desire to have it understood that the invention is not limited to the details of construction and arrangement of parts which are illustrated in the accompanying drawing since the invention is capable of other embodiments, and that the phraseology which I employ is for the purpose of description and not of limitation.

In Fig. 1 the work bench or table supports a suitable angle bracket 146 to which the sewing machine, generally indicated by 147, is attached. This machine has a cylindrical arm 14:8 in which operates the loopers and feeding mechanism of the" machine and also an arm 149 in which operates the needle driving means and an automatic lubricating mechanism 150 for oiling all of the parts of the machine. The head or post 151 of the machine in which the usual needle andvpresser bars operate is protected by a suitable guard so as to cover the entire mechanism. This part or post of the machine oifers little or no obstruction to clear vision and freedom in handling the work.

In the operation of stitching closed vamp shoes, the work is drawn in from the back of the post indicated at 152, Fig. 1. By drawing the free ends of the work around to a position in front of the presser foot 153 and the curved needle as in Fig; lythe stitching proceeds past the two stitching mechanisms and feeds oil of the end of the presser foot as at 154. One piece after another may be thus stitched in this manner expeditiously and the handling of the work facilitated.

"The presser foot 153 is carried by a presser bar 155, but is located the reverse of that used in the regular sewing machine. In fact, the entire mechanism is'reversed'to an upside down position. The presser foot 153 is of curved form so that the seam as it is stitched will be fed in a curvilinear path to give the proper curvature to the heel portion of the shoe. The looper mechanism for making the parallel rows of stitches is generally indicated by 156 (Fig. 5).

movem nt around the needle.

The loopers 157 carry the usual under thread that is concatenated with the needle threads carried by the needles 158 operated by the needle bar 159. The rocking and endwise shiftable looper shaft 160 operating in the cylinder carries the loopers 157, the rocking and endwise movement being efiected in the usual way by well-known means, not necessary to be described herein. Suitable thread handling means, not shown, is also provided. The looper shaft 160 has secured thereto collars 161 embracing a fiat looper 162, (see Fig. 4). This looper has'its thread engaging portion 163 arranged to carry a thread and operates up and down by reason of a crank pin 164 carried by a collar 160 secured to the looper shaft. This crank pin operates in a slot 165 of the looper which is slotted as at 166 to fit over the looper shaft 160 and be guided thereby; The free end 167 of the looper operates in slot 168 of the cylinder 148. The operation is such that when the looper shaft rocks in its bearings the crank pin gives vertical motion to the looper 162 to pass on the loop receiving side of the needle as it moves upward and then as the looper shaft shifts endwise for the needle avoiding movement, the looper passes at the opposite side of the needle so that the looper thread is entered by the needle in the formation of the stitch. The vertical guiding of the looper is obtained by its passage through the slot 168 in the cylinder wall 148 so formed as to provide free space for endwise movement as indicated at 169 Fig. 5 while it has a sidewise fit on the edges of the looper whereby the looper is thus guided in its vertical movement and prevented from side play, especially as it is also guided by the looper shaft passing through the slot 166 of the looper. This looper thus moves up and down and endwise with the looper shaft so as to have a suitable elliptical It co-operates with a curved needle 170 clamped to a carrier 171, see Fig. 3. This carrier is provided with a hub 172 having a keyway for a. key or spline 173 so as to have a sliding movement on the looper shaft which gives a circular movement to the needle so as to pass the loops of the thread through the seam portions of the Work as indicated at 174 in Fig. 6.

The needle carrier comprises a fiat bar 175 hav- .ing one end 176 freely operating in an arcuate groove 177 of the cylinder wall 148 and is guided therein from side shake or play. The opposite side of the cylinder has a similar groove 177' to receive the end 178 of the bar 175 for guiding that end adjacent to the needle to prevent side shake of the needle carrier. In this manner, it will be seen that the needle is passed back and forth through the seam as at 174 (see Fig. 6) to form the stitches each time the work is advanced by the feed dog 179 against the action of the presser lengthwise of the cylinder 148 and form a right.

angle bend over a wire guide as at 180 where it feeds at right angles at 181 and enters another sections A and B being fed along by the feeding mechanism of the machine.

From the foregoing it will be seen that the ieedle joining the lapping portions of the Work to form the seam operates in a curved path and transversely to the straight path of movement of the pair of needles making the parallel rows of stitches, while the rocking loopers co operating with the latter needles are different in formation and operation from the looper co-operating with the curved needle.

It will also be seen that I have provided two sets of stitching elements, one operative to seam the lapping edges of the work and the other to stitch a stray strip or tape to the seam by parallel rows'of stitches, and which sets of stitching elements are located one in front of the other in a cylinder sewing machine, whereby in a single operation on the one machine and by one manipulation of the work the seam is both formed and stayed expeditiously. I

In some classes of work it may be desirable to use the second set of stitching elements to make a covering seam and this can be readily done by merely omitting one of the loopers 157 and adjusting the needle car 159 so as to turn both needles into position .to co-operate with the looper, the present construction of upside-down machine readily lending itself to the making of various forms of seams such as that referred to since the vertically operating looper co-operates with a curved needle while the vertically operating needles co-operate with a curved looper so that in the use of such a machine, it is not essen-- tial in some forms of work that the rear set of stitching elements be used to stitch a stray strip as they may be used to form a covering seam.

It is to be understood that, by describing in detail herein any particular form, structure or arrangement, it is not intended to limit invention beyond the terms of the several claims or the requirements of the prior art.

Having thus explained the nature of my said invention and described a way of constructing and using the same, although without attempting to set forth all of the forms in which it may be made, or all of the modes of its use, I claim:

1. In a sewing machine having a presser foot, the combination of means for feeding the opposed edges of the work, means for stitching such opposed edges with a row of stitches, and means for then stitching a tape over the sewed seam with parallel rows of stitches, both said stitching means located one behind the other, the same presser foot co-operating with both stitching means and constructed to give the proper shape to the Work during the operation of said two stitching means.

2. In a sewing machine, the combination of means for guiding the opposed edges of the work in a curvilinear path to curve the seam in the direction of its length, means for stitching such opposed edges with a row of stitches, and means for then stitching a tape over the sewed seam with parallel rows of stitches.

3. In a sewing machine having a rockingand endwise movable looper shaft, a looper and a needle mounted thereon, the looper having endwise movement with the shaft and the shaft having endwise movement relative to the needle.

4. In a sewing machine having a rocking and endwise movable looper shaft, a looper and a needle mounted thereon, the-looper having endwise movement with the shaft and the shaft having endwise movement relative to the needle, the.

looper also having 'a reciprocating movement in a vertical plane and the needle'an oscillatory movement in a curvilinear-path.

5. In a sewing machine having a rocking and endwise movable looper--shaft', a--looperf"and-'a needle mounted thereon, the looper having end wise movementwith the'shaft and the shaft having endwise movement relative to the needle and a looper located in spaced relation relative to said first looper and a needle co-operating therewith.

6. In a sewing machine having a rocking and endwise movable looper shaft, a looper and a needle mounted thereon, the looper having endwise movement with the shaft and the shaft having endwise movement relative to the needle, a pair of loopers located in spaced relation to said first looper and a pair of needles co-operating therewith.

7. In a sewing machine having a rocking and endwise movable looper shaft, a looper and a needle mounted thereon, the looper having endwise movement with the shaft and the shaft having endwise movement relative to the needle, a pair of loopers located in spacedrelation to said first looper and a pair of needles co-operating therewith, said sewing machine having a cylindrical arm carrying all of said loopers.

8. In a sewing machine having a rocking and endwise movable looper shaft, a looper and a needle mounted thereon, the looper having endwise movement with the shaft and the shaft having endwise movement relative to the needle, a looper located in spaced relation to said first looper, and a needle co-operating therewith, said sewing machine having a cylindrical arm carrying all of said loopers.

9. In a sewing machine having an arm, a needle and a co-operating looper within the arm, and a rocking and endwise movable shaft on which the looper and needle are mounted and by which the looper and needle movements are imparted.

10. In a sewing machine having an arm, a curved needle and a co-operating looper within the arm, and a rocking and endwise movable shaft on which the looper and needle are mounted and by which the needle and looper movements are imparted.

11. In a sewing machine having an arm, a needle and a co-operating looper within the arm, and a rocking and endwise movable shaft on which the looper and needle are mounted and by which the looper and needle movements are imparted, the looper having rocking and endwise movements with the shaft and the needle having a rocking movement only with the shaft.

12. In a sewing machine having an arm, a needle and a co-operating looper within the arm, and a rocking and endwise movable shaft on which the looper and needle are mounted and by which the looper and needle movements are imparted, additional loopers carried by said shaft and spaced rearwardly from said first looper and needles co-operating therewith.

13. In a sewing machine having a cylindrical arm, two sets of stitching elements located, one

in front of the other and comprising needles and loopers, all the loopers and one of the needles being carried within said cylindrical arm, and means for reciprocating the last needle transversely to the longitudinal axis of the arm.

14. In a sewing machine having a cylindrical arm, two sets of stitching elements located, one in front of the other and comprising needles and loopers, all the loopers and one of the needles bem carried within'said cylindrical arm, and-one of said needles comprising a: curved needle, and

1 means for-reciprocating the last needle transversely to the longitudinal axis of the arm.

15. Ina-sewing machine having a cylindrical armgtwo sets of stitching elements located, one in'frontof the other and comprising needles-and loopers, all the loopers and one of the needles beingcarrie'd within said cylindrical armfone set of stitching elements including a pair of loopers and the other set a single looper.

16. In a sewing machine having a cylindrical arm, two sets of stitching elements located, one in front of the other and comprising needles and loopers, all the loopers and one of the needles being carried within said cylindrical arm, one set of stitching elements including a pair of loopers and the other set a single looper, one of the needles comprising a curved needle co-operating with the single looper.

17. In a sewing machine having a cylindrical arm, two sets of stitching elements located, one in front of the other and comprising needles and loopers, all the loopers and one of the needles being carried within said cylindrical arm, one set of stitching elements comprising a pair of straight needles and the other a curved needle, the loopers co-operating with the straight needles having one formation and the looper co-operating with the curved needle having a different formation.

18. In a sewing machine, the combination of a shiftable looper shaft, and a looper and a needle mounted on said shaft, the movements of the shaft imparting to the looper and the needle their respective movements.

19. In a sewing machine having a cylindrical arm, a rocking and endwise movable looper shaft Within said arm, two sets of stitching elements, one set comprising a curved needle and a looper mounted on said shaft and'having the movements thereof imparted thereto by the looper shaft, and the other set comprising a pair of loopers also mounted on said looper shaft and a pair of needles co-operating therewith, and a presser foot cooperating with both sets of stitching elements whereby both sets of stitching elements are operative during the passage of the work by the same presser foot.

20. In a sewing machine having a cylindrical arm, a rocking and endwise movable looper shaft within said arm, two sets of stitching elements, one set comprising a curved needle and a looper mounted on said shaft and having the movements thereof imparted thereto by the looper shaft, and the other set comprising a pair of loopers also mounted on said looper shaft and a pair of needles co-operating therewith, and a presser foot co-operating with both sets of stitching elements whereby both sets of stitching elements are operative during the passage of the work by the same presser foot, said presser foot having a curved formation whereby the work is fed in a curvilinear path to curve-the work, and means for supplying a tape or stay strip to the seam during the second stitching thereof.

21. In a sewing machine having a presser foot, the combination of means for feeding the opposing edges of the work, means for stitching said opposed edges with a row of stitches, and means for then stitching the same with parallel rows of stitches, both said stitching means located one behind the other, the same presser foot co-operating with both stitching means and constructed to give the proper shape to the work during the operation of said two stitching means.

means for stitching the work with one kind of seam, and means for then stitching the previously seamed work, both saidstitching means located one behind the other; the same presser foot cooperating with both stitching means and constructed'to give the proper shape to the work duringthe operation of said two stitching means.

JOHN P'. WEIS. 

